Gluten-Free Baking + Cooking Substitutions

I receive so many requests for substitutes in cooking and baking recipes (food allergies are on the rise, you know, not to mention those tender-hearted animal loving vegans- their smiling faces are popping up everywhere these days) that I thought I would write a post about what works- and what doesn't- in quirky Substitution Land. And...provide a permanent link to this vital information in the Karina's Kitchen sidebar. For your convenience, Bubbie. See how much I think of you, Dear Heart?

So now you can scoot your accommodating Aunt Sadie over to this Baking + Cooking Substitutions link when she calls you up to ask, For the love of Pete- how the heck do I fix you a mac and cheese casserole if you can't eat gluten or casein? You can now answer, Have I got a blog for you.

Of course, then she is sure to ask, Um, what's a blog?

Baking Substitutions for Gluten-Free and More

Flours

Gluten-free flours are generally light, medium or heavy in texture.

A blend of medium and heavy flours with some starch mixed in to lighten, tenderize, and help bind the batter or dough works best.

The heavier grains (including psuedo-grains like quinoa) tend to contain more protein. Think of flours like buckwheat, quinoa, millet, cornmeal, nut meal, and bean/legume flours as akin to baking with whole wheat flour. You get a similar denser product, often darker in color, and with less rise.

Medium flours are akin to all purpose flour- these include sorghum and superfine brown rice flour. If you cannot find sorghum flour (also known as jowar) a standard white rice flour will work.

Light flours include white rice flour and the starches- tapioca starch, cornstarch, potato starch (NOT potato flour, which is whole different animal) and arrowroot starch. Sweet rice flour is also starchy- but very sticky.

For substituting flours:

If you are going to substitute a flour choice, match your flour weight. Sub sorghum with fine brown rice flour (medium to medium), for instance, and heavier millet with heavier buckwheat. Sub cornstarch with potato starch or tapioca starch (starch to starch).

Note: I personally favor a higher protein and hearty (but tender) whole-grain texture to my baked goods; so you'll find many recipes feature buckwheat (not a grain at all, but a groat, related to rhubarb) and millet.

I also love sorghum- also known as sweet sorghum and jowar. Brown rice- if it's ground super-fine the way Authentic Foods mills it--- is a fab tasting choice.

White rice flour- to me anyway- often has a slightly gritty mouth feel that dissolves into gumminess, and an odd cooked-rice taste when baked, so I tend not to use it. But if you like it? Knock yourself out.

As for the bean based flours like soy and chick pea flour, many love using them. I personally loathe soy and bean flours. They taste a tad metallic. And like many celiacs, I have trouble digesting them (I'm allergic to legumes, in fact); but if beans work for you, Babycakes, it's an alternative high protein choice. Start by subbing only a part of the flour blend with a bean flour- say, start with using 1/2 cup. See how you like it.

If you can do cornmeal, I have many recipes with it- tender polenta-style cakes and breads and muffins. It brings a tender, sweet and slightly grainy texture to baked goods. (If avoiding corn, try these recipes substituting your own medium to whole grain flour blend.)

Your own preferred gluten-free flour blend (or baking/pancake mix) can be substituted in all of my baking recipes one-to-one. Texture and rise may be slightly different. You'll need to develop a feel for your own preferred blend and how it behaves (needs longer baking time? an extra egg white?).

And please note- in general- you may have to adjust the moisture level in my recipes if you use different flours than I have used or live at a different altitude. Experience helps, of course; follow your instinct as you bake and grow accustomed to how your particular gluten-free flour blend works with your oven, in your kitchen, and climate (dry or humid).

Also note that if recipes are consistently undercooking (gummy in the middle) your oven temperature may be off. Some ovens can be quite tempermental. Purchase an oven thermometer to gauge how your oven is performing. You may be surprised, as one reader was, to discover that your preheating stage takes additional time before it reaches true baking temperature- despite the on light that declares oven ready.

Starches

Gluten-free starches include cornstarch, arrowroot, tapioca, and potato starch. In baking they are- for the most part- interchangeable. So if a recipe calls for tapioca starch and you avoid tapioca, try cornstarch or potato starch or arrowroot.

Sweet rice flour is also a possibility, but it is sticky; use it sparingly in baking or the recipe may turn out gummy.

Note: Potato flour is not the same as potato starch. I don't use potato flour ever; it's heavy, gluey and best used sparingly for thickening a gravy. But I love potato starch in breads- it gives breads spring and tenderness.

Here is a basic template- or guide- to mixing up your own preferred gluten-free flour mix:

All-Purpose Gluten-Free Flour Mix Template

Combine:

1 1/2 cups brown rice flour or sorghum flour
1 cup white rice flour
1/2 cup tapioca, potato or corn starch
1 teaspoon xanthan gum

Makes 3 cups.


My Latest Gluten-Free Flour Mix Template

Combine:

1 cup sorghum flour
1/2 cup millet flour
1/2 cup buckwheat flour or cornmeal
1/4 cup quinoa or nut flour
3/4 cup potato or tapioca, or corn starch
1 teaspoon xanthan gum

Makes 3 1/4 cups.

*For more baking tips and flour blend ideas see Karina's Gluten-Free Baking + Cooking Tips.


Using a baking mix as a flour sub

This is super easy- especially for those not familar with gluten-free cooking. For a fabulous all-purpose baking, waffle and pancake mix (that I've used in recipes as a one-to-one wheat flour substitution in regular baking recipes with great success), try Pamela's Ultimate Baking & Pancake Mix. Please note* it contains dairy (buttermilk) and almond meal- so it may be off limits to some, but it is the best gluten-free baking mix I've tried.

An alternative non-dairy gluten-free baking mix is Arrowhead Mills- All Purpose Gluten-Free Baking Mix or the organic pancake and waffle mix. It contains vanilla flavor, however and is therefore only suitable for sweet recipes.

The advantage to using a gluten-free baking or pancake mix in a recipe is: the xanthan gum and salt is already in the blend. I do not usually decrease the leavening in the recipe I am converting, however; gluten-free baking seems to fair better with an extra leavening boost.


Fats

The main fat most of us need to substitute in gluten-free dairy-free (aka GF/CF) and vegan baking is butter. Butter is a tough one because it brings so much flavor to the recipe. However, I've been baking and cooking successfully without it for years.

My mainstay? Olive oil. I keep two kinds of heart-healthy olive oil in my pantry. Extra virgin olive oil for savory cooking and salad dressings, and extra light olive oil for high heat frying and dairy-free baking.

I find that extra light olive oil works best in quick breads, cakes, muffins and brownies- the flavor is neutral, and in general, gluten-free flours can use the boost in moisture.

When I bake cookies, however, I may use light olive oil (use less than the butter called for in a recipe) or an all natural non-dairy no trans fats shortening. The one I use is Spectrum Organic Shortening made from palm oil. I also recommend the organic shortening for pie crusts. It also works for crisps and crumbles (though, so does light olive oil). The one drawback with using this shortening is it lacks flavor- it's tasteless. To compensate I add an extra teaspoon of good strong vanilla extract to the recipe.

If you prefer another oil besides olive oil- for whatever reason- simply substitute that oil for the butter called for in a recipe- but start with 1 to 2 tablespoons less. Safflower works well as does grapeseed oil. *Note- Soybean oil can be problematic for many; as is sunflower or peanut oil (if you have soy, legume, sunflower, or peanut allergies). Coconut oil is another choice for baking (though rather heavy). Choose organic coconut oil for best quality and taste.

Ghee is a popular fat in Indian and Ayurvedic cooking that is pure butter fat (boiled and separated from whole milk). If done properly ghee theoretically contains no traces of milk protein (casein) or the milk sugar lactose- but- if you are sensitive at all, please check your source to confirm that proper testing was done on the ghee and it is indeed, casein free. The advantage is the flavor- it tastes like butter. The big disadvantage is that ghee is pure saturated animal fat, and therefore not heart healthy- at all. Ghee is not a health food (no matter what advocates say). It is pure saturated animal fat, and raises inflammation in the body.

There are several non-dairy margarine blends available- with differing degrees of usefulness in baking. Most are soybean oil based. Many have some form of casein added (check ingredients!). In general the softer or whipped blends have too much water in them to be useful in baking. The harder stick style (though not as healthy) is better in baking. I do not recommend using any trans fat margarine or shortening. Trans fats raise inflammation in the body.

In a pinch, I have found that a creamy not-too-tangy gluten-free vegan mayonnaise can sub for part of the butter or margarine in a baking recipe- especially in chocolate recipes.

Fat free?

Some readers like to simply lower the fat content in a recipe. For this kind of substitution there are several alternatives. One of the most popular is to use applesauce. Applesauce works well in recipes with fruit and cinnamon- such as muffins, cookies and cakes.

Another choice is canned pumpkin, squash or sweet potato. Or gluten-free baby food- such as jarred pears or apricots, even prunes. Canned or jarred purees of fruits and vegetables add body and moisture to the batter, with zero fat.

Remember- stronger fruit flavors fare better in recipes with equally strong tastes- such as cocoa, dark chocolate, warm spices such as cinnamon and ginger, and pumpkin.

Egg substitutions

My first choice is Ener-G Egg Replacer. It works well in most recipes. Whisk it with warm water for a light frothy texture and hot water for a thicker, gluey binding effect. A recipe adjustment may be needed to help body and volume- adding a tablespoon of starch like tapioca, arrowroot, or applesauce helps. For more creaminess, you might try adding a teaspoon of fat as well, such as light olive oil (yolks have fat, after all).

If avoiding corn (Ener-G Egg Replacer uses a corn source according to several readers), substitute 1 tablespoon tapioca or potato starch plus 3 tablespoons water for each egg called for in recipe to help binding. You will need to increase leavening a bit to compensate- add an extra 1/4 teaspoon baking powder.

Flax seed is a choice for those not allergic to flax seeds. Use two tablespoons ground flax meal plus 1/8 teaspoon baking powder blended with 3 tablespoons of water for each egg called for in recipe. This works best for binding; you will need to increase leavening a bit to compensate.

Chia seeds can also be used as a gel for gluten-free baking. From the genus Salvia hispanica, chia is a plant in the Mint family- an excellent alternative for those of us allergic to flax seed.

Note on using seed based gels: I find they make gluten-free baked goods gummy. Perhaps additional compensation in a recipe is needed to make the gels work- less agave/honey, less oil?

Banana: Try a half mashed ripe banana plus 1/4 teaspoon baking powder for each egg.

Mayo: Use 3 tablespoons vegan mayonnaise in place of one egg, for binding. I would add a little extra leavening- 1/4 teaspoon baking powder.

Tofu: If not soy intolerant, try using 1/4 cup silken tofu for one egg for binding; I would add a little extra leavening- 1/4 teaspoon baking powder.

Not vegan: Dissolve 1 tablespoon unflavored gelatin in 1 tablespoon cold water; add 2 tablespoons boiling water. Beat vigorously until frothy. I would also add a little extra leavening- 1/4 teaspoon baking powder.

Find my egg-free recipes here in my vegan index.

Sugar-Free? Sugar substitutes include:

In standard baking recipes, 3/4 cup honey (reduce liquid in recipe by 1/4 cup) can be substituted for 1 cup granulated or brown sugar. I would start with less than that; gluten-free starches plus that much honey may create a gummy mess. Honey is not recommended for crisp cookies- the cookies will be chewier and softer. Flavor and density will also be affected.

If you are a vegan, try using maple syrup (it adds a maple flavor- not always desirable) or gluten-free brown rice syrup, or organic raw agave syrup. I would start with the guidelines for honey, above.

Molasses (from cane or sorghum) can also be used.

As a wrap-up, in general, when using a liquid sweetener, use less than the amount of sugar called for (taste test to adjust sweetness level). Adjust the liquid by two tablespoons less to begin with. Find agave sweetened recipes here. And note that overall volume of the batter may be less.

For an extensive discussion about sugar substitutes see this post Sugar Blues: Gluten-Free Baking Without Sugar.


Dairy Substitutions

My favorite dairy free substitute in gluten-free cooking and baking is organic light coconut milk. I use it in sauces, soups, curries and stir-fries. It’s fabulous in whipped sweet potatoes, pumpkin and winter squashes. Check and compare labels- as too much guar gum, a common additive in coconut milk, can act as a laxative for sensitive individuals. Note* There is an organic coconut milk available with no gums added [I believe it is Thai Kitchen Organic].

A new alternative milk on the market is a chilled coconut based milk in cartons- check your local market's dairy case.

Another terrific non-dairy choice is hemp milk. It has a strong taste- and takes some getting used to- but hemp has nifty EFA's and Omegas and is richer, creamier than most other non-dairy milks (such as rice milk, soy milk or nut milks). I use it creamy sauces, smoothies, ice cream, and soups. I also use in creamy desserts like my fabulous Vegan Pumpkin Pie. Not all hemp milks are equal when it comes to taste, so shop around and taste test. And some (Living Harvest vanilla hemp milk, for example) may use a barley enzyme in the natural flavorings; always call the manufacturer to discuss the gluten-free safety of the product.

To make your own non-dairy condensed milk or evaporated milk, here's what my son Alex does:

Sweetened Condensed Coconut Milk:

3 cups coconut milk (or other non-dairy milk)
1/2 cup organic sugar- or sweeten to taste with agave

Stir ingredients together in a sauce pan and heat gently; cook slowly over low to almost medium heat, stirring constantly, until the volume is reduced to about 1 cup.

Add some vanilla extract to taste, if you like; and a pinch of sea salt, if desired.

Cool the condensed milk and refrigerate if not using right away.

For Evaporated Coconut or Non-Dairy Milk:

As above, but omit the sugar and pour the milk into a saucepan; cook gently over low to medium heat, stirring until the coconut milk is thickened and reduced to 1 & 1/2 cups. Cool. Refrigerate.

Non-Dairy Tips:

For a tasty creamy sauce for comfort foods like mac and cheese try my vegan Cheesy Uncheese Sauce- it's scary good.

In savory recipes try using a light vegetable broth in place of milk- this works in soups, and mashed potatoes that top my Vegetarian Shepherd's Pie, etc.

For a thorough non-dairy resource check the wonderful web site Go Dairy-Free. Its author has a new cookbook and guide to dairy-free living that has extensive resources, titled Go Dairy Free. Browse the cookbook Go Dairy Free by Alisa Marie Fleming at Amazon here.

Thickeners

For making gravy, use a slurry made with arrowroot starch instead of wheat flour; it thickens better than gluten flour, anyway. I like to add a dash of dry sherry, brandy, or wine to the gravy as well. (What's a slurry? Stir a tablespoon of arrowroot starch into an equal amount of cold water. You now have a slurry. Add it to the gravy and stir over gentle heat till thickened.) Arrowroot, by the way, is a starchy powder made from West Indies tubers. It's a good choice for those avoiding corn and potato.

Other starches also work for thickening gravy, sauces and soups:

Potato starch is a Kosher favorite for thickening. Make a slurry and add it to gravies, sauces and soups. Stir and heat gently till thickened- don't boil it.

Cornstarch may be used to thicken stir-fry sauces and chile that you'll be eating right away (it doesn't freeze well). Cornstarch also creates a glossy look (I don't like my gravy shiny) and it doesn't re-heat well. It also gets a bit gluey for my taste if it starts to over-cook.

Tapioca starch (also a tuber- called manioc, yucca or cassava) thickens a sauce rather quickly. You can add it to a soup or sauce near the end of cooking time if you need to.

Taste test and make sure the starch slurry you added has cooked enough so that your sauce, gravy or soup doesn't taste "starchy"; if it does, continue to stir and cook a bit longer.

For making a roux- a cooked flour and fat paste used as a thickening base in white sauces, stews, cream soups, gumbo, and cheesy dishes like macaroni and cheese- there are several choices.

Sweet rice flour is an excellent choice for making a roux; it has a lovely neutral taste and is tolerated by most- except those allergic to rice.

If you need to avoid rice flour in a roux I might suggest using sorghum flour- it works.

And if you are avoiding grains completely, try making a slurry with potato starch instead and adding it into the liquid as you heat it.

Other thickening ideas include:

Potato flour.

Add some cooked mashed potato, or even sweet potato; stir well and cook gently.

If you can do eggs, adding egg yolks helps to thicken a sauce or soup base. Stir and cook through thoroughly but do not boil or heat too quickly; use gentle, lower heat and whisk to blend.

Gums

Xanthan gum is a cellulose additive that adds stretch and viscosity to gluten-free recipes, but those who are hyper-sensitive to corn (xanthan gum is often derived from a corn base) might try using guar gum. Guar gum is legume derived, so those who are sensitive to beans, soy or legumes may react to it. Even if one is not allergic to legumes, guar gum may act as a laxative in sensitive individuals.

I was recently asked about baking with no gums. Here are some thoughts: try adding a tablespoon of potato starch, or tapioca starch (or arrowroot); starches have a binding ability, especially when whisked with warm liquid.

If you can handle eggs- try adding an extra whipped egg white.

Adding 1-2 tablespoons of honey- or agave- to a baking recipe adds moisture and binding.

For things like muffins and quick breads- I have a crazy thought. How about adding a half cup of fruit jam to the batter? The fruit pectin will help with binding and moisture.

Peanut-Free

For a nut-free peanut butter substitute try using sunflower seed butter aka Sunbutter in recipes- it is delicious in cookies, cakes, brownies and stir-fry "peanut" sauce.

Sesame seed butter (also called tahini) is another choice, if seeds are not a problem. It tends to be a tad bitter (and is definitely a more "grown-up" taste); I compensate by adding a little honey or agave, to taste.

Other seed and nut butters include hemp butter, cashew butter, pecan butter and almond butter; all may replace peanut butter in any recipe.

Almond butter is the most bland; you may have to boost spices and other flavors to compensate.

Yeast

I am not an expert on yeast-free baking [yeast is not an issue for me]. If you are allergic to baker's yeast you will need to find leavening that helps the bread or pizza dough rise. Baking powder and baking soda are two alternatives (use a teaspoon of lemon juice in the recipe to help activate the rising action). Check with your physician to see if baking powder and/or baking soda is acceptable for you.


Karina's Notes on gluten-free batter:

Gluten-free batters are a bit different than wheat flour batters. They are stiffer at first, then stretch and get sticky as the xanthan gum and starches do their thing.

If the batter "climbs" the beaters, slow down the speed and slightly lift the beaters to encourage the batter to move back down into the bowl. Move your beater around the bowl in figure eights, at a slight angle. Practice your technique- soon you'll be winging around gluten-free baking like a goddess.

For more information, recipes, and gluten-free cooking tips:

Karina's Gluten-Free Baking & Cooking Tips
GF/CF Holiday Baking Tips
Karina's Dairy-Free Recipes
Karina's Rice-Free Recipes
Karina's Egg-Free Recipes

And check out:

Whole Foods Guide to Entertaining Guests with Special Diets